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Beijing A to Z City Guide

 

Beijing is a city as poetic as it is practical. Its name Bei (North) Jing (Capital) is a geographic indication, a compass point disguised as a title. There was a time when only the Emperor, his family and their attendants could pass through the gates of the Forbidden City; today the palace is open, and so is Beijing itself, and there is much to do. Paper holds thoughts; printing shares them; the compass tells you where to venture next. Beijing invented all three, among many, many other things. Together they form a sort of cultural tripod upon which the city rests, and a vantage point from which one might begin to understand it. Here you cannot fly a kite (another Beijing invention) without bumping into a UNESCO World Heritage Site there are eight in the city. And yet, Beijing is not defined by its monuments, but by how they make you feel when you are standing beside them.

 

A to Z list

A

Atelier Suasua

Our partners in time, design, and sentiment the imagination behind Aesop WF Central House 19.

B302, Jucai Building, No.76 Caoyuan Hutong, Dongcheng District, Beijing

ateliersuasua.com

B

Brick Art Museum

If circles and bricks are your thing, make your way to this terracotta warren of spherical geometry. Picture Peter Zumthor after a summer learning Mandarin.

Chaoyang, China, 100103

redbrickartmuseum.org

C

Compass

Created during the Tang Dynasty, a compass was used for directional divination. Fast forward a few centuries, and it is still used in digital divination. Set your Luopan' toward the Beijing Observatory to discover early examples.

China, Bei Jing Shi, Dongcheng, ñá 2÷ ®?: 100005

bjp.org.cn

D

Dress

Oscar Ouyang and Dingyun Zhang. Two local designers with threads worth following.

instagram.com/oscarouyang.official

instagram.com/dingyun_zhang

E

Exchanges at Jizhi Tea Shed

Before screens, news brewed in cups. Teahouses remain an analogue internet: places where romances ferment, and storytellers steep new yarns. At this particular establishment, history meets the present, and a local tradition finds shelter in a foreign courtyard where a fourth-generation teamaker ensures cups steam year-round.

Xinzhuang Village, Changping District, Beijing

xhslink.com

F

Film

Beijings cultural, philosophical and architectural diversity is an ideal growth medium for great cinema, as exemplified by the ten films gathered by the British Film Institute at bfi.org.uk/lists/10-great-films-set-beijing

bfi.org.uk

G

Great (Walls and Otherwise)

Four great inventions, the eight great traditions, a great many miles of wall. And the greatest of all musical and actorial exports: Faye Wong, patron saint of atmospheric longing. We have watched Chungking Express and 2046 as many times as we have listened to her Cantonese cover of Dream Person, which is to say, a great many.

youtube.com

H

Hutongs

An alley where history is rewritten. Within the Lanman Hutong, old walls now wear flowers and murals. Here, a bookstore opens its rain-curtain door to the lane, coffee steams beside it, as the White Pagoda watches from the west.

Lanman Hutong, Xicheng District, Beijing

instagram.com/wuhaobeijing

I

Ink

Having invented paper pressing, China knows how to measure aword. Beijing-born Bei Dao and Bei Ling are two poets who both know the worth, and weight, of words.

poetryfoundation.org

poemist.com

J

Jianbing

Breakfast as architecture. Crisp, warm and folded. Best eaten at 7 a.m. on the street.

K

Kites

Paper, again. Beijings traditional kite makers such as those at Three Stone Kite turn wind into sculpture. Join the octogenarians ogling over theirs in the park. Procrastination perfected for children or the child within.

China, Beijing, Xicheng District, 0‰è'W225

visitbeijing.com.cn

L

Libraries

Beijing City Library, National Library, Liyuan Library. Etch yourself into each part of this literary triptych.

Beijing City Library: Building 3, No.1 Lvxin Road, Tongzhou District, Beijing

snohetta.com

National library of China: No.33 South Zhongguancun Road, Haidian Distict, Beijing

wikipedia.org

Liyuan library: Zhihui Valley, Jiaojiehe Village, Yanxi Town, Huairou District, Beijing

tripadvisor.com

M

Musical Street

Here, violins, erhu and brass instruments hang in shop windows a condensed orchestra waiting to be tuned. When walking along this lane, you can hear the testing notes of a suona or pipa, becoming the citys improvised soundtrack.

Xinjiekou South Street, Xicheng District, Beijing

N

Nature: Chapel of Sound

Get out of town and head to the sonic sanctitude of the Chapel of Sound. Appearing as a precariously balanced boulder, this monolithic open-air concert hall is within earshot of the Ming Dynasty era Great Wall.

Luanping, Chengde, Hebei Province

galeriejoseph.com

O

Olympics, 2008

The Beijing 2008 Opening Olympics Ceremony is worth watching 2008 times. Perhaps the closest any country has come to writing a thesis through mass movement. Criterion has released a record-breaking amount of Olympic footage from the early days of the event to Papaioannou's gorgeous return in Athens.

Beijing Olympics Park, Chaoyang District, Beijing

criterion.com

P

Panjiayuan

A sprawling field where the city's layered past surfaces in fragments. Not a market, but an archaeology of the mundane; a place where time is bartered, and every object holds a quiet, dusty story of a home it once knew. Some of the decorations in Aesop WF Central House 19 came from here.

58 Yangrou Hutong, Xicheng District.

instagram.com/postpostspace

Q

Quire

Mr. Chu Paper Studio is named for the paper of the Chu tree. Its shelves are a topographical map of the country, each sheet a testament to a local paper-making, all holding silent their own weather and light. On weekends, lessons in forming, brushing and folding guide dextrous hands in the quiet science of turning paper into artware.

No.20 Zhaofu Street, Dongcheng District, Beijing

xhslink.com

R

Rem Koolhaas

Sitting in Le Dauphin in Paris, designed by Rem Koolhaas, about to tuck into a sole meunière, this Senorialist was flashed with a phone displaying a picture of the CCTV Headquarters building in Beijing. 'A cabdriver thought it looked like boxer shorts and thats now its nickname, they were told. There you go. Visit if you can, and also: do not let anyone see you using your phone at the table, it is about as charming as being caught with your pants down.

East Third Ring Road

Guanghua Road

Beijing

wikipedia.org

S

Space of Time Gallery

A quiet gallery on the outskirts, that serves to answer musician Jim Croces wish to 'save time in a bottle.'

Zhaozhuang Village, Shunyi District, Beijing

space-of-time.com

T

Temple Fahai

Painted over 580 years ago by imperial court artists, this temple features vibrant frescoes of spiritual depth and meticulous detail earning them their reputation as the crown of Ming temple art.

No. 23, Shatan North Street, Beijing, BJ, China

thetemplehotel.com

U

UCCA

Ullens Centre for Contemporary Art is a bit of a mouthful. One of Chinas earliest private museums.

4 Jiuxianqiao Rd, Chaoyang, Beijing, China, 100102

ucca.org.cn

V

Views of the Sky

The Ancient Observatory: pre-telescopic instruments that double as sculpture.

China, Bei Jing Shi, Dongcheng, ñá 2÷ ®?: 100005

bjp.org.cn

W

Wu Wei

Not strictly from Beijing, but felt throughout. Effortlessness as philosophy; a useful approach in a city of twenty-two million.

wikipedia.org

X

Xu Bing

The artist and former vice-president of the Central Academy of Fine Arts Beijing created, among many sublime works, Book from the Sky, which reads like scripture written in a dream.

xubing.com

Y

Yards (Siheyuan)

Courtyard houses. Architecture turned inward, reflective, precise and the setting for Aesop WF Central House 19.

Courtyard 1, House 19, West end of WF Central, No. 269, Dongcheng District

wikipedia.org

Z

ZhiFengTang Bee Museum

A small museum that creates quite the buzz.

Yard 137, Shuangying Middle Road, Nanshao Town, Changping District, Beijing

catobrandpartners.com

 

The city through the senses

 

Essentials for Beijing

 

Stores of stories

Each of our stores has unique design, and our architectural approach incorporates circular and regenerative principles.

The clouds are in the blue sky, and the water is in the bottle.

Li Ao

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